Kyoto
As I said before, I luuurve this hat.
I made up 2 extra sizes for the pattern, since size appears to be important - it fits me well, but is obviously too big for the mannequin. However, be warned that only the large size has been tested out.
The decreases may look slightly different for the smaller sizes, but should still look pretty much like this:
I definitely recommend wet blocking this hat; it was a bit puckery in places before the blocking. I didn't pin it out or anything, though - I soaked it in tepid water and Eucalan for about 10 minutes then put it on the mannequin head to dry.
Yarn
Debbie Bliss Donegal Tweed Aran (100% wool; 88m per 50g ball):
One skein color 281101 black (MC)
One skein color 281706 natural (CC)
I like this quality, but the black tweed has natural flecks and the natural tweed has black flecks. Sometimes, at first glance, this may make it look like you've made a mistake:
If that bothers you, I would consider a yarn substitution. I wonder if something like Cashsoft Aran would knit up to the same gauge.
Other Materials
Size 7, 47" Addi Turbo circular needle (as usual, I recommend Magic Loop)
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
8 stitch markers; one different from the rest
Measurements
Gauge: 17.5 stitches and 22.5 rows to 4", after washing and blocking.
Circumference: 18"[20", 22"] for sizes S[M,L], unstretched.
Abbreviations
CDD (centered double decrease): Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, k1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over
K1CC, for example, means knit 1 stitch with CC. Similar meanings for K1MC, P1CC, P1MC, P2MC, P3MC, and CDDCC.
Kyoto Rib
Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 stitches.
Make sure that both yarns are held to the BACK when changing colors.
Rounds 1-3: *K1CC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Round 4: *K1CC, P1MC, K1MC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Rounds 5-7: *K1CC, P3MC, repeat from * around.
Round 8: *K1CC, P1MC, P1CC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Rounds 9-11: Same as rounds 1-3.
Round 12: *K1MC, P1MC, K1CC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Rounds 13-15: *P2MC, K1CC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Round 16: *P1CC, P1MC, K1CC, P1MC, repeat from * around.
Repeat rounds 1-16 for pattern.
Hat
With MC, cast on 80[88,96] stitches (I used the alternate cable cast-on). Work a setup row: K1CC, P1MC across. Join into a round, being careful not to twist. Use the distinct stitch marker to mark the end of the round. Work in Kyoto Rib until hat measures 5.5"[5.5",6"] tall (or desired length - the 6" length just covers my ears). Be sure to end on either Round 8 or Round 16 of the pattern.
Work marker round, following Round 1 of the stitch pattern: *Work 11[11,13] stiches, place marker, work 9[11,11] stitches, place marker, repeat from * around (omit the last "place marker," since the end of round marker will already be there).
Begin crown decreases:
"Work stitch in pattern" means that if the next stitch is a CC knit stitch, then K1CC. If the next stitch is a MC purl stitch, then P1MC. Half the time on the row after a CDDCC, you will need to K3CC. (The other half, will be P1MC, K1CC, P1MC.)
Size L only: *Work 5 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 5 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 11 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 88 stitches remain.
Sizes M and L only: *Work 11 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 4 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 4 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 80 stitches remain.
All sizes continue here:
*Work 4 stitches in pattern, CDCC, work 4 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 9 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 72 stitches remain.
*Work 9 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 3 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 3 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 64 stitches remain.
*Work 3 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 3 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 7 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 56 stitches remain.
*Work 7 stitches in pattern, slip marker, Work 2 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 2 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 48 stitches remain.
*Work 2 stitches in pattern, CDDCC, work 2 stitches in pattern, slip marker, work 5 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 40 stitches remain.
*Work 5 stitches in pattern, slip marker, Work 1 stitch in pattern, CDDCC, work 1 stitch in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 32 stitches remain.
*Work 1 stitch in pattern, CDDCC, work 1 stitch in pattern, slip marker, work 3 stitches in pattern, slip marker, repeat from * around - 24 stitches remain.
From here on, all stitches will be in CC only.
*K3, slip marker, CDD, slip marker, repeat from * around - 16 stitches remain.
*CDD, slip marker, K1, slip marker, repeat from * around - 8 stitches remain.
Cut CC yarn, leaving a tail. Thread the tail through remaining stitches and pull tight to close. Cut MC yarn also. Weave in ends.
I will end with a bonus innards shot:
2 Comments:
I love this hat. its really cool, and I bet the 2 yarns in back make it super warm!
very nice innards!
oh this is a marvel... the name fits it well, i think it's got some japanese flair to it, but i am french, lol.
i knit the target mits from "knitting nature" and the sideways open cardigan from yarn i bought from the hills in bretagne, france. you can check them at my blog here:
http://zazeway.blogspot.com/2008/02/knitting-nature-interpretations.html#links
i hope you like them.
Post a Comment
<< Home